Day 3 - Exploring Glencoe — Travelling bryans

21st October 2019

I awoke this morning to the sound of silence. Maybe a little bird tweet, but nothing else. The sun was coming up and all around was still. Bliss. Don’t get me wrong - I could not live like this, but to have some time away and to just wake up when my body is ready and to take things slow is a real luxury.

After a glass of juice, I changed into my running clothes. Time to go for a little run around the surrounding area. It was cold and there was a light frost on the floor, but I braved the cold and off I ran. When that cold air hit my lungs, it hurt! But then I looked around me, and across Loch Linnhe and its quiet morning beauty and I toughened up and set off. At one little break in the road, I dropped down to a footpath that was closer to the loch. I saw a couple wrapped up in ski coats, but that was all. At my half way point, I turned around and ran back. Then as I got to the end of my run, I realised that I couldn’t see the gap to get back up to the road. So I walked a little and listened for the road … then I saw a little house among the trees with smoke coming from the chimney and thought “that looks like ours” and it was. I had finished my run by running behind our house. No idea how! I got in, hot shower, hot toast, hot coffee and before long we were ready to get going on a day of exploration on the West Highland Way.

We drove to the Glencoe visitor centre and the very nice man there talked us through some options for walks. We had earmarked an ‘easy, family’ trail through the forest, but he suggested an hour’s walk to a view point on Kinlochleven. A six mile walk ‘up and over’ and we were just going to do half. Up and back.

The Devil’s Staircase was initially given its name by the soldiers who were part of a road building programme. The carrying of building materials up that stretch of the road was not popular! The name was coined when some of the workers chose to travel to the nearest pub after their wages had been paid out. For the workers at Kinlochleven the journey to the Kingshouse Hotel proved to be more difficult than many realised. The journey back was even worse as unsteady legs meant that many were unable to manage the return trip and, on a cold winter’s night, the devil often ”claimed his own“.

That would not be us! We started off at a steady pace and up and up we went. Starting off with a bubbling brook criss-crossing the path, an hour and twenty minutes later we were at the top and drank in the view. It was a TOUGH walk. The paths were mainly rock or gravel, surrounded by a soft carpet of heather and moss. Really a challenge, but we did it. I mean what a bunch - one turned 60, one just been running and quite overweight, and one teenager - but we all laughed and chatted our way up and were rewarded with stunning 360 degree views of the Highlands and even a glimpse of Ben Nevis. On the return journey, Oliver almost ran down, while Andrew and I more tentatively followed. Certainly quicker down than up, but just as tough on the legs.

We rewarded ourselves with a delicious pub lunch. I had fish and chips, Oli a burger and Andrew had haggis, neeps and tatties! (haggis, turnip and potato). I have to admire Andrew, he loves his food, but is always willing to try local food no matter how hungry he is. He said it was delicious.

We were really tired now, so we made our way home via the Co-Op, to buy some more logs for the fire and some food for dinner. Tonight we are going to stay in and play cards. No phones, no TV, no devices.

Tomorrow we head off for Skye. We are staying in quite a remote part of Skye called Flodigarry, so if you don’t get a new post, we may be without signal.

It’s been much colder today, but still dry, and we have been incredibly lucky to have not had a spot of rain whilst here.

Night night - I’m off to lose at cards.